Shira in Southeast Asia 08/2007

Russian Market & Hotel le Royal

2007-08-25T23:05:00.000-07:00

Saturday 8/25/07 3:32 PM Hi Time (Sunday 8:30am PP)

Yesterday was interesting. I got up and went to the bank for a cash advance to go spend some money at the Russian market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung). I had heard that you can get lovely items there for the best price, instead of purchasing goods in boutiques. I started out with a fantastic primary series class with Dylan (who’s practice is amazing by the way). There was only 1 other person in the class with me, so we both received a lot of adjustments and guidance. I enjoyed the class very much and learned a couple of things from Dylan re: my practice that I can probably work on over the next year. Any hoo, afterwards I had a quick lunch and found an English speaking motodriver to take me to this market. After last night’s fiasco, I developed a new system for determining if my motodriver who when asked if he speaks English will always nod yes, truly does speak English. I ask him his birthdate and if he looks at me blankly, I do not get on the moto with him. This was a great idea although, when I met Kol, who does speak English, he didn’t know his birthday. He explained why, but his accent was so thick, I couldn’t understand. So, Kol took me to the Russian market. Now this market is kind of like the swap meet only every booth is smashed together in one square city block with a roof on it. It is thick. It is hot. It is repressive (to me). But still I walk around thinking perhaps the conditions will improve, and besides, I have my $2.00 items to buy for the better price of $1.75. The problem is, every where I turn there are children holding up their infant siblings in one hand, and a donation tray in the other. Or a woman with a scarf barely covering half of her face, which has that disease that is nicknamed “elephantitis.” She walks up holds her palm up to me, and pulls the scarf to the side, so I can see the extent of her problem. When I briefly pray for her and turn to walk away, she pulls the scarf even farther aside. It was basically a house of suffering with souvenirs. After 10 minutes, I had to get out of there. I found Kol, and we left that part of town.

So then we drive by Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. Apparently going to the Killing Fields (Choeung Ek Memorial) is a historical place that many tourists visit. Despite repeated motodrivers asking if I would like to visit there, I know that I will not go there. I cannot. Well, I suppose I could, but I will not. I know that I can not go to places of great suffering. I may start crying and never stop. But part of me feels that I should not avoid the realities of history and that this is part of Phnom Penh’s history. I bargain with myself and I tell myself, “Well, I will go to the Toul Sleng instead and take a tour. So, after my experience at the Russian Market, we pass Toul Sleng and Kol pulls over. I pass by the 10 or so amputees (men in their 40’s) holding out their missing limbs for me to get a closer look, and I walk into the museum. Well, it’s a concentration camp. I stand just inside of the entrance and realize I can not go in here either. I turned around and walked out. Kol was a bit confused. He asked if I was angry. I explained that I can not be around so much suffering, that I was not angry but sad. He said, “Ah. You do not have a strong heart.” Immediately I am offended inside, but then just as quickly I thought about that and think that we could have a translation problem here. Maybe he meant I have a “soft” heart. I think some more and decide, no he is right just the way he said it. I don’t have a strong heart, which must be why I protect it so fiercely. I thought about my experience today, witnessing so much decimation of spirit and I realize, I cannot be in places of suffering unless there also exists hope. And the sad truth is, there are places without hope. I never thought to protect myself in order to safely bare witness, as I did in Buduburam. I just walk around naïvely, and feel the hope that I hold sucked right out of me. I was exhausted afterwards.

And so, as the day drew on, I recalled a place in my visitors guide that recommended a beautiful bar in a hotel. The Elephant Bar is located inside the Hotel le Royal. With a cheesy name like that, I didn’t know what to expect. But I’m willing to check it out for the “2 for 1 drink” happy hour between 4pm and 7pm. Nothing replenishes hope like a Vodka tonic. So, Kol takes me there. Yet another building that takes up a full city block. But this one has a gate all around it, and looks like a palace. The motodrivers and tuk tuks line up outside of the gate. They apparently are not permitted to pass through the gated entry of the circular driveway to drop me off at the front door. I am hesitant to go in after what I’ve seen today – but I am powerless against drink specials at the moment. So I walk up the steps and as I reach entrance, 2 doormen in fancy outfits open the double doors for me as another doorman and the bell captain welcome me inside. All 4 men bow their heads. I am simultaneously blasted with cold aircon and the smell of lemons, which I later find, pervades the entire building. After I inquire, I am lead to the Elephant Bar where I notice that napkins are arranged as sprouting lotus bouquets on every table. My Absolute and tonic comes with a basket of tarot chips and salsa that I promptly devour. I can’t believe this place exists. 20 minutes ago a woman approached with the left side of her face inflated like a squash and here I am in the seat of decadence. Something is very wrong with this picture. So I ponder this paradox. I feel compelled to almost apologize to my server for even being here. I just came for a free drink – not to lap up the façade of decadence surrounded by the 3rd world. If I were a renegade, this place would be the starting point for my revolution. I quickly down my 2nd and free drink, as well as another basket of tarot chips, and beat it out of there.

Aside from a healthy dose of guilty pleasure, the best part of going there was the server found the location of the Art Café, for me, where there was to be a Cambodian dance performance. I’d been asking around all day where I could find it, and no one seemed to know. Everyone has a phone, but no one has money to get it turned on to make calls. I walked down the circular drive and Kol and I found the Art Café. It was 6:15pm and the performance didn’t start until 7pm. I asked Kol if he wanted to join me for the performance. It was free and after all, he has been driving me around safely all day long. So he left to go shower and change, and I went to the bar next door called the Voo Doo Bar. Great name. I walk in, and there are about 30 women in there who immediately shout “Hello!!!” (Ohhh, its THAT kind of bar.) I shout “Hello!!!” back at them, laughing, and sit down at the bar. I am not sure if they are just drinky drinky girls, or prostitutes, or both. I order a beer which they give to me in a coozie with naked men on it. My kind of girls. I spend the next 45 minutes surrounded by 6-7 of them, talking about their lives. Many of them have children and parents they are supporting. They are lucky to walk out of the bar with $15 at 2am. I showed them pictures of Hawaii. I have several pictures of Bowe on my camera and they all wanted to see him. I think they enjoyed the view of Bowe more than the view of the Hawaii beaches. I couldn’t agree more. I am missing him very much. I finished my beer and went to the Art Café for the Cambodian Dance performance which was fabulous. Kol showed up half way through it all cleaned up and apparently thinking we are now on a date. I try to explain that in fact, we are NOT on a date, as kindly as possible. I buy his drink and afterwards, he takes me home in the POURING rain. As the frontman on the moto, he took the brunt of the quarter-sized rain drops that pelted us relentlessly. By the time we got to Del Gusto, the front of him was as if he had been dipped in a pool from his back. Poor guy.

Phnom Penh Riverfront

2007-08-25T22:57:00.000-07:00

Thursday 8/23/07 10:28 PM (Friday, 3:28pm Phnom Penh)
Phnom Penh Riverfront

Well, I have had a wonderful day. I started out at Del Gusto’s café and had a yummy French toast with fruit and a coffee with sweetened condensed milk. I compared my hotel map with my visitors guide map and set out on my day. Part on a the back of a motorcycle, but mostly on foot. I walked all around photographing people and places. I noticed that I automatically walked slow. It didn’t take any effort. And I absorbed everything around me slowly, as if blowing on a hot yummy coffee drink that must cool to the perfect temperature in order to take that first sip. I sipped on everything around me and took it all in slowly, with little effort. Perhaps I wasn’t gulping and slurping because it would have been too much for me to take in. there was indeed a lot to take in. I walked over to the Riverwalk area where most of the tourists stay. I saw an old white grandfather with an adolescent girl – which may have triggered my nausea, or perhaps I had felt that way already. I was just having a leisurely walk and the big heavy rain cloud came to the Riverwalk. Right at that moment, I was along the waterfront that was strewn with overhangs. The first place I saw when one of those thick rain drops fell on my shoulder, was a “You and Me Spa.” (I saw another down the road a bit later. I’ve been warned about the lack of sterilization at many places, so I just wanted a polish change – that’s it.) It was a great way to wait out the rain. She did a great job too, but the chick that did my toes was pissed off about something. I don’t know if they rotate customers and she felt jipped that I didn’t want more expensive services, or if she was having a bad day, or maybe she just hated my feet. Who knows. But she was NOT happy. (She’s the one in the middle of the picture I took at the spa front entrance.) It was still raining when my toes dried, so I walked over to an internet café to send a couple emails. Over in this touristy area of town, the children carry around their infant siblings and lift them up towards passing tourists begging for food and money. These children are thing, but by no means starving. The has yet to happen over in the neighborhood where the yoga studio and the guesthouse are. These children are relentless, just like the “Chicklets!!!” kids in Rocky Point, Mexico. Same concept. I’ve seen this before.

Later in the evening I attended a Cambodian outreach film festival after a long struggle with a motodriver who did not know where to take me and almost drove me back to the airport. Good times. Then I attended a birthday party for a yogini.

The Peace Train

2007-08-24T20:01:00.000-07:00

The Peace Train

The Peace Train was an exhibition of Cambodian children’s vision of peace from various “Peace Train” workshops. These women go into orphanages and women’s shelters for recovering women from the sex trade, and basically do art therapy with them. They pay for all supplies out of pocket so they don't have to negotiate the politics of local NGOs - which are often corrupt (as was my experience with Children's Better Way in Buduburam). This exhibition featured the art from 9 different NGOs (Non-Governmental Organizations – basically, non-profits). Because we had the yoga class, we arrived after the exhibit had finished, but the organizers were still hanging out. They said that they had over 300 children and women attend. As I walked through the exhibit with the 2 art directors (Amanda and Setareh) who put this whole thing together in a MONTH, I had a unique (and somewhat awkward) experience. I realized that this is why I came to Cambodia and to Phnom Penh. I realized that I had come here to meet these women, and others like them. This is the work that I long to do. THIS IS IT – and these are the women that I will do some of my work with. I had a very strong reaction to this realization.

They are holding another workshop on Sunday and invited me to come and help, and to teach yoga to the children. Amanda invited me to join her on a visit out to one of the slums on Monday to work with the women out there. I’m ecstatic. The last couple days While I enjoyed Chiang Mai and I love Nitt and Nang, my last couple days there I wondered why I wasn’t on a beach somewhere in Ko Samui. Now I know why.

Arriving In Phnom Penh

2007-08-24T19:56:00.000-07:00

Thursday 8/23/07 6:46 AM (11:46pm Phnom Penh time)
Arriving In Phnom Penh

I am in LOVE. L- O – V – E. I love love love love Cambodia. I am in heaven and I feel wrapped in the warm embrace of Cambodia. Love. It. But lets not get ahead of myself. I arrived on time in Phnom Penh. I had my friggin’ passport photo – which apparently would have cost me an extra dollar to obtain in Phnom Penh, but whatever. Customs was pretty easy, aside for having to fill out the exact same information on 3 different forms. I paid my $20 and into Cambodia I walked. I was told to take a mototaxi to my guesthouse. So, I wrote down the name of my guesthouse and the address. The word moto in mototaxi means motorcycle. Meaning the mototaxi driver places my backpack between his legs, and I hold on to everything else – and him. A 25 minute drive cost me $5.00. As we drove on the road in Phnom Penh, I was struck by how familiar it felt. Kind of like the Mexico of the East. I loved it. I loved everything about it, including taking my life in my hands on the back of this motorcycle that at times found its way on the opposite side of the median moving towards on coming traffic right out of a scene in The Matrix.

In Thailand you drive on the left side of the road, like in Europe. In Cambodia, you drive on the right side of the road, mostly. But it appears that many need to drive against the flow of traffic. Now this isn’t just on a big road with people driving randomly like in Mexico. There is an actual concrete median down the center of the road, and folks drive against traffic on the wrong side of the median. And its not a car here and there – there are cars, trucks, and motorbikes EVERYWHERE. Crazy. Astonishing. And so exciting. I thought, if my mother knew what I was doing right at this moment, she would have a stroke. So then it starts raining, and not a light spring shower but quarter sized raindrops that feel like pellets on your head and face (particularly on a motorbike) and then soak right to your scalp. Here we are weaving in and out of traffic when the road is its slickest, right after it starts raining. I think I prayed the whole way. And it worked because I arrived in one piece, after the motodriver took me to the wrong guesthouse and became very frustrated that I would not just go to the one that we arrived at.

The Hotel Del Gusto is adorable. The owners have 3 hotels, and appartently this is its finest. They must really love yoga teachers, because the reserved the nicest room for me, at a discount. It is beautiful, and by far the nicest room I’ve stayed in, in quite a while. My room is located right next to the restaurant and front desk, which is the most secure place I believe. (Or the noisiest place because its right next to the kitchen and the front desk.) There is a cute little entryway kind of like a little foyer. And then a sizeable bedroom with king-sized bed and there were fresh cut star lilies on the table. I feel very special that they gave me this room. I arrived at 5:30 pm, and realized that I am 3 blocks from the yoga studio, so I changed and caught the 6pm class with Dylan who I’ve been communicating with via email.

Dylan got me the hook up. So I arrived at his clas, a beginner class, but very nice. He’s a great teacher. Apparently, he lives at the studio, which has rooms for massage, a kitchen, cook, and house keeper. The cooks, a Vietnamese woman and her daughter, make his meals. He is actually house- and business-sitting, while the owner of the studio is back in the United States celebrating her mother’s 60th birthday this month. The cook prepared a lovely meal for him – more than enough for one person, so he invited me to have dinner with him. It was delicious and so healthy. Rice with a pumpkin mushroom curry and a tofu salad. Scrumptious. All I had all day was a Cliff barn and I just devoured the meal. He said that a friend of his, Amanda was at an art opening tonight and asked if I wanted to attend. I ran back to the Del Gusto, and then Dylan came by and we took a moto to the opening.

Lessons learned in Bangkok Airport

2007-08-24T19:53:00.000-07:00

LEAVING CHIANG MAI

Nitt and Nang were so sweet. They got up at 6:30 am to see me off at the airport and bring me a pikake bouquet. I’ve made some true friends here. Their friendship and caring has been among the best experiences I’ve had so far. I mean who sees someone off to the airport when they already have a ride. They actually drove separately from me to say goodbye. I was so touched.

LESSONS LEARNED IN BANGKOK AIRPORT
(Wed 8/22/07 9:10 PM HI Time) Thursday 2:20pm – Bangkok

1) If the only quite space in an airport, is a Muslim prayer room, one attempt to fake membership in Muslim. Perhaps one could drape a scarf around ones head – although if one is wearing a tanktop, tanktop cancels out scarf around head. Or perhaps one could just pretend to be a different kind of Muslim. And if the Thai airport employee manning the door says, “You can not go in,” one might say, “Do I not look Muslim?” She ultimately let me in when I promised that I would pray to Mohammed. She warned me against sleeping, and of course when I went in what did I see, but two men sprawled out on the floor asleep. Just one more difference between the genders in that culture I suppose. Anyway, I was thrilled to have a quite spot to meditate and then do some gentle yoga stretches. I hung out for an hour.

2) If airline warns against carrying over 100 ml of liquids, believe them. Again, my math and conversion skills fail me and now I have a much lighter load – no soap, no shampoo, no styling cream, no mosquito repellant, no toothpaste, no moisturizer. I lost track of what else I’d donated to Thailand’s disposal. I had to draw the line when he wanted to toss out my leave in hair condition of course. We went several rounds of him taking the bottle out of my bag, and me putting it back into my bag. But finally we compromised when he let me put some of it into a prescription container instead. At least I have my passport and passport photos. Which leads me to the next lesson.

3) For heavens sake, could you just read a bit about what you might need to do to get in to a foreign country like Cambodia? When the CDC makes international travel recommendations such as, bring extra passport photos, believe them. I read this little piece of info in my Cambodia travel guidebook last night, it said (and I quote), “Don’t forget extra passport photos when you get to the Cambodia border or it may be your DEMISE.” So, what did I forget to do before leaving Hawaii? Go to Costco and get extra passport photos. (Will I really need them?) What did I forget that I might leave until I passed through Thailand departure/immigration on my way to the gate? My passport photos. Despite my efforts to follow Sinchai’s homework of slow walking and thinking, I did the exact opposite. And when I could not politely convince anyone to help me locate a passport photo booth in the airport I had a mini-meltdown/panic attack. One person said go to the1st floor, I walk a half mile to the nearest elevator and go to the first floor. A person there said no photo here, go up to 4th floor. I go back up to 4th floor (tick tock mind you – plane leaves sometime today.) I go back to immigration where they take and electronic photo when you enter and exit the country. They say, go to 2nd floor. Then someone else said, go to 1st floor. And voila – commence meltdown. I observed myself as I was in this state of heightened physiological arousal. I thought why do I meltdown. And then I thought, “because it works.” This very sweet Thai immigration official came over and walked me to the 1st floor and helped me find a passport photo booth. By the way, the button on the elevator said 2nd floor, but the American electronic voice that announces the floor said “1st floor.” Go figure. I’m so wore out from this whole experience that at the moment, I don’t even WANT to go to Cambodia. What I DO want is a big fat margarita and a pedicure.

These 2 lovebirds sitting across from me in the boarding area are too cute. They must be in their early 20’s sharing an Ipod, and can’t keep their hands off each other – but in a sweet way, not in a “get a room already” way. I wish I had my sweetheart here to rub my head while we wait for the plane – and perhaps remind me to bring extra passport photos. I think I need to move out of view of these two. I’m so depressed.

Last day in Chiang Mai

2007-08-22T03:04:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 8/21/07 10:54 PM Hawaii time (Wednesday, 3:55pm CM)

Well, its my last day in Chiang Mai and it has been a quiet one. I awoke this morning with very tender legs and hips from yesterday’s yoga class, and quite frankly, I’m lucky to be walking with how tired and sore I feel. I’m more packed than unpacked. I had my last massage with Sinchai today and he said I have “bad lower back” because it doesn’t touch the ground when I lay down flat. He gave me exercises to do daily that he said will help. Then I went and had lunch at this local place along a string of little local lunch cafes. I’ve eaten there before and had broiled chicken breast, rice, chicken broth, and cold jasmine tea for 20 baht (about .70 cents USD). What a deal. The portions are small, but I had enough to eat. I was full. I went to the cultural center gift shop for a bit and on my way home bought the same meal for take away to have for dinner tonight. I’m a bit short on cash. I’m trying to put off the inevitable – when I go to the exchange and get a cash advance on my credit card. I only have 1 travelers check left and another week of life in East Asia. Plus, from what I understand, Cambodia is a bit more costly, but they do accept both US dollars and Thai baht. I have my hotel all lined up and life is good. I am preparing for an early morning (5am wakeup) and a 5 1/2 hour layover in the Bangkok airport. I will find a little place to perch myself, hang out and people watch. I’ve so enjoyed my time here, and there is so much more to see. I’ve barely scratched the surface – although my plan was to come here practice yoga, get thai massage, eat, and play with children – and all of that was completely accomplished to the fullest.

And did something happen to Miss USA? There was a picture of her in the paper today crying next to her crown. Is this an old paper or is this a new Miss perfect scandal? How interesting that we can not find a model American young woman that can meet our model American standards for a full calendar year. By the way, as I meet people from other countries here (mostly Europeans) they insist, they do not hate Americans. They hate our American government, which they call “corrupt.” I’ve never heard that term used in American media, but hearing it now it seems fitting. I better leave it at so they’ll let me back in the country. The next time I write I will be in Cambodia. I’ll let you know if Brangelina are in town.

Planning and packing

2007-08-22T03:01:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 8/21/07 7:03 AM Hawaii time (Wednesday 8/22/07 12:03am in Chiang Mai).
I am up late. I started packing and organizing and reading Eat Pray Love. I am preparing for my journey to Cambodia – the things I will need – most of which I hope to leave there. I gave Nitt and Nang some of the clothing I had purchased in Ghana, as well as some items of clothing that I really haven’t worn here, so I must not need them. Of course the space for those items has been filled with “this and that’s” which will return with me.

I’m also starting to come up with an alternate plan for my One Night in Bangkok – (quick who sings that?) the night before I leave to come home. On Wednesday 8/29 I must wake at 5am to arrive at the Phnom Penh airport by 6:30 am. I will have 22 ½ hours either in the Bangkok airport or in Bangkok itself. So during the 5 hour layover I have in Bangkok on the way to Phnom Penh, I will locate an appropriate locker for my crap, and take a smaller, more suitable overnight bag into Bangkok for the day. At least I can check out the royal palace and arrange to have a cozy bed to sleep in. Bangkok’s new airport is at least an hour away from the main city of Bangkok, so my dilemma was do I cruise at the airport hotel, or do I suck it up and go into Bangkok. I’ve learned that the hotels are about $200/night near the airport, and that the airport has lockers. So, I will rent a locker for 20 hours or so, take a bus into the city for $4.00, get a room in a guesthouse for $20, and cruise around Bangkok for a few hours. Splendid!

Here's my travel itinerary just in case anyone is intersted.

Thai Airways –
Depart CM –Thursday 8/23 @ 8:20am – arrive Bangkok at 9:30am
Depart BKK -Thursday 8/23 @ 14:50 – arrive Phnom Penh at 1600
Depart Phnom -Penh Wednesday 8/29 @ 8:40am – arrive BKK at 9:50am

China Air –
Depart BKK Thurs Aug 30th @ 8:25am – arrive in Taepae 1300
Depart Taepae 14:30 and arrive Honolulu at 6:25am

“So, an elephant walks into a bar…”

2007-08-21T02:35:00.000-07:00

Seriously. An elephant really walked into the bar last night. Remarkable! I was stunned and so excited at first. Until I looked a little closer into his little baby elephant eyes and saw how sad this elephant was. I don’t know if he was mistreated, unless you call parading him around Chiang Mai charging people to feed him at 2 am, mistreatment.
I’ve been enjoying my time in Chiang Mai. Every day I walk around the old city, go to yoga, thai massage, and to the orphange. In between I eat delicious Thai meals – mostly vegetarian such as green papaya salad and curry dishes. Today, after yoga, our instructor Sandra (from France), Valerie (from somewhere in Europe – perhaps also from France), and Carrie (from the US – I forget which state) – we all went to a cute little café for a chat and some coffee. It felt so fantastic to sit and chat with girlfriends again without having to speak VERY SLOWLY, repeating the key words, and gesturing like mad. We talked about yoga and boyfriends and it was very Sex in the City set in Thailand. I was so happy in that hour. Traveling alone is good in many ways, but there is nothing like coffee with the girls.

Sinchai says that I have lower back problems and that I should really watch the back bending postures. He taught me some exercises that he said should really help if I do them daily. I’ve gained so much from my relationships with the massage therapists I have met. They are gentle Thai men with much wisdom and kindness.

I love seeing the children every day. One little girl has apparently figured out what one is meant to do when a camera points in your direction. She just stops and grins like mad. I adore these children. Their teacher is incredible. She works 6 days a week and cares for their every need – helps them brush their teeth, feeds them, cuts their fingernails and toenails. Yesterday I during their time outside, I saw her give them a ride on her moped, one by one. She is amazing, loving and energetic. After seeing conditions and way of life for many children in the refugee camp, these children are incredibly fortunate in comparison, despite being orphaned.

I have one more day here in Chiang Mai, and then I leave for Cambodia early the next morning. It should be a full day of travel and waiting in the Bangkok airport. I received an email from a guesthouse recommended by the yoga studio. They have written to me and offered an exchange that I teach yoga to their staff for a discount on my room! How fabulous! I am so excited to experience a new place and teach yoga to an entirely new culture. Take care and I will try to write soon! Thanks to everyone who is writing to me via email. I love reading your thoughts about my thoughts and the fact that so many people care enough to keep track of me.
Much aloha,
Shira

Getting Around & Personal Meaning

2007-08-17T05:42:00.001-07:00

Friday 8/17/07 1:33 AM Hawaii Time (6:33pm CM time)

GETTING AROUND CHIANG MAI

This morning I awoke at 6am and caught a taxi to the 6am Ashtanga Studio – Yoga Sala for a mysore (self-guided) practice. A “taxi” here is different from a Tuk tuk (which is a motor bike with a little covered seat in the back, which can fit up to 3 people). A taxi on the other hand, is a little truck with a high ceiling shell sealing in the truck bed. There are little benches on either side and it can seat up to maybe 12+ people. The cost for a tuk tuk around the old city is about $40 baht per person (Approximately $30 bat to $1USD), and a “taxi” since it is often shared with others, is about $15-20 baht per person. After the yoga practice, I did a little shopping and wandering outside of the “old city” into an area near Chiang Mai University. It was really quite nice – very Biltmore-ish for the Arizona contingent, and very Royal Hawaiian-ish for the Hawaii braddah’s & sistah’s.

PERSONAL MEANING

After a quick and very tasty lunch of chicken friend rice ($45 baht) I tried out a thai massage therapist that came highly recommended. Sinchai is a master massage therapist and teacher, and he is blind. You can check him out at http://sinchai1.tripod.com/ if you like. I could not reach him on the telephone, so I stopped in yesterday. Today was the soonest he could see me. I had an hour and a half Thai massage and it was different from Suttipong’s style, but equally amazing. He said to me, “You carry tension in your legs and along your spine. You walk fast and think fast?” (Who me?) “Your mind is fast, but your muscles are slow. You body holds tension when you walk fast and think fast. Walk slow. Stop thinking.” Yeah, I’ll schedule that in between yoga classes, internship, and my dissertation. I am going to have to take multi-tasking to a new level if I’m supposed to slow down. Now, I know that’s not what Sinchai had in mind. I quit meditating when I started graduate school because I considered yoga my “moving meditation.” Except that I don’t think you’re truly supposed to be moving while meditating, particularly if you use your movements to distract you from the fact that you have a hard time sitting still for a few minutes. So far, this is the take home message of my trip. If I’m going to be the kind of psychologist I want to be, I need to sit with myself with a little more ease, which takes practice, which means I need to start meditating daily once again. No more short cuts. Now deep inside, I don’t like this idea because I have built my life around short cuts and speed. And not just behind the wheel which is where I figure I’ve spent about a 25% of my waking life. But my entire life has been a process of learning to optimize time by rushing around like a maniac and multi-tasking. I AM the woman they labeled in the Progressive Insurance commercial, “The Makeup Artist.” I’ve put makeup on while driving to work for at least 2 decades. I don’t think I know how to function any differently. Not only that – I’m moving to LA where these qualities are not only expected, they are essential for one’s survival –on highways, professionally, and interpersonally. I fear that Los Angeles is perhaps not the best environment to reinforce my new way of being. So I know that this change is necessary for me, but I have no idea where to begin. I just realized that even at this VERY moment, I am writing this journal, uploading photographs while downloading photographs, listening to itunes, and shoveling (well they DO eat with a fork and spoon here) chicken stir fry with rice down my gullet. AND I’M ON VACATION!!! Wow, this REALLY is not going to be easy. Or I could just forget what I’ve realized, live completely unconsciously walking around in tangles and knots for muscles, and quite possibly have a stroke in my 40’s, which is what my mother did, and her mother as well. This whole topic is doing nothing to reduce my tension or the quantity of my thoughts. I’m screwed.

Other than that, I returned to the orphanage today, along with my friend Nitt and one of her new customers/acquaintances on vacation from New York. I had a great time with the little ones and again, there were countless teenagers and a few adults who stopped by just to play with them. This orphanage is nothing like I’ve been exposed to in movies which consists of Oliver Twist and Orphan Annie. I LOVE THEM!!!

Here's a link to the orphanage's website: http://www.baan-kingkaew-orphanage.org/

2007-08-17T05:42:00.000-07:00

8/16/07 Baan Kingkaew Orphanage & Charcoal Café

2007-08-16T03:45:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 8/15/07 11:35 PM Hawaii time (Thursday, 4:35pm Chiang Mai time)

Charcoal Café & Wat Chiang Man:

I’m in heaven. I found this fabulous little café – the Charcoal Café, which I’ve been wanting to visit since before I went to Pai. The Charcoal Café is the cutest, very quaint little coffee and pastry café about a block and a half from the Manee Guest House. Here I sit, its pouring rain, thunder and lightening outside. I’m having a yummy mocha and their corn cream soup, which is delicious. And here’s the best news EVER – they have wireless internet at a flat rate of $1 USD for unlimited time – and I am miraculously connected to the internet! Don’t ask me how, I have no idea. I actually brought my computer with me to catch up on my journals and convert photographs that I wanted to upload over at Nitt’s internet shop. I’m connected to the internet RIGHT NOW! YIPPEEE!!! The only problem (because heaven forbid I should be free of technological challenges) is that Kodak gallery is doing some sort of maintenance to its website, so I still can’t upload pictures. But no worries. I’ll get that taken care of when its’ back up and running. Before stopping in here, I visited Wat Chiang Man, Chiang Mai’s oldest Wat. It was pretty spectacular. Check out the pictures when I get them posted.

Baan Kingkaew Orphanage

So I showed up at the orphanage this morning at 9am to learn that they are not accepting new volunteers. I said that I wanted to play with the kids and that whoever I spoke to yesterday had said that it would be ok to come down at 9am today. The lady in administration, Dom, said that Nitt and I could play with the kids, but its best to come at 3pm. They have the kids in classrooms during the day, so after school is when we can come and play with them. However, since I was there Dom allowed me to help out with the little ones (ages 2-3 years old). They had a teacher and a couple of nannies. I helped get them dried off and dressed after their morning bath, and I played Lego blocks with them and let them crawl all over me. There was a big sign in English outside of the classroom which said “Please No Photographs,” Dom mentioned this rule as well. So that was a bummer. But after the children had their bath and were playing with Lego blocks, some local Thai high school kids showed up to play with them as well. These local high school kids had their cameras and started snapping away. So, I just took out my camera and did the same. The teacher never objected at all and in fact was very cool about me taking pictures like crazy. And the children LOVED it – they loved seeing their images on the digital screen. There were 17 children in that age group, and without help from the high school kids, I have no idea how they handle all of those little ones on a daily basis. I can tell you that I witnessed a lot of love and affection from the staff towards the children and it is evident that the community cares about them as well. And the children – they were so affectionate and sweet towards me and towards one another. There were several times when a push or a struggle over a toy ended with one child gently touching the other as if to apologize for being a little too rough. I was so deeply moved and honored to have this opportunity to be around them. Possibly one of the best memories from my trip so far. I plan to come again tomorrow afternoon at 3pm. So, I played with them, fed them, and rubbed their backs when they went down for their naps. And I persevered when they peed on me, and one of them projectile vomited everywhere (thankfully, a near miss) after lunch. He was a little maniac and I imagine that he woofed down his food too fast. None of the kids were sick and the staff washed their hands frequently (and requested that I do the same.) These children were very well cared for and seemed to have more than their basic needs met. This was the first time I’ve ever visited an orphanage and it was a very positive experience. It confirmed for me that some day I will be walking out of a place like that with a child on my hip. Guaranteed, in the next 5-10 years, one (or two) adopted children will be in my care. I am certain of it.

Back in Chiang Mai - 8/15/07

2007-08-16T03:44:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 8/14/07 9:38 PM (Wednesday -2:38pm Chiang Mai time)

Back in Chiang Mai

Hallelujah back to civilization!!! Yippee! Just arrived in from Pai and I’m back at the Manee hotel. By the way, on the return van trip from Pai, I sat near the front and had the visual line to the speedometer, which was pushing 120 mph. Ignorance was bliss in the back. I’m having computer woes, and subsequently, a pity party over green papaya salad and ginsing tea. I have a killer 2-hour yoga class that starts in 45 minutes. Then I will regroup and address these issues a little later. I did get in touch with a local orphanage and will be there tomorrow at 9am to play with the children. I’m stoked about that.

I just had an awesome 2-hour yoga class that focused a lot on 2nd series postures and I saw/did postures I’ve never seen before - loved it. Really great class. Afterwards, I went over to Nitt’s shop and hung out for a while waiting for her computer repair guy to stop by and check out the problems I’m having with my Mac laptop. Naturally, he arrived and knew nothing about macs. So there you have it. However, Nitt whipped out a thumb drive and said I could use it to transfer my journals and pictures from my laptop to one of her computers and then up onto the internet. So, having found a temporary solution to my computer tribulations, we went out to eat together and got to know one another better. Quite an enjoyable evening. Plus, when she learned that I planned to volunteer at the orphanage, she wanted to come along She’s a former school teacher, so she’s going to teach me some games to play with the kids – and she’ll help me understand what they say. I’m stoked! We plan to go together after I check it out tomorrow. ☺

Pai City - 8/13-8/14, Suttipong's fire

2007-08-16T03:42:00.000-07:00

Monday 8/13/07 1:29:20 AM Hawaii time (6:30pm Pai time)

Suttipong’s fire

Today I slept in until 8:30am – which was quite the snooze for me. Normally I’m up before 7am. Anyway, I awoke and went to my yoga class. The teacher Mam was sick so she couldn’t teach. She refunded my money because I had prepaid for the class. There was one other student there, George, a cute girl from Ireland. Mam encouraged us to practice anyway, so I taught George Ashtanga for an hour or so. It was so nice to teach again. Afterwards George and I went to breakfast together and talked story for a bit. George is an actress and interested in pursuing her masters in drama therapy. Apparently a university in Ireland offers training in this area. How fabulous is that? I really enjoyed her company and sadly she left Pai for Chiang Rai this afternoon. And here’s the kicker – George took the tantra class yesterday and she’s the one who dropped out. The tantra people were looking for me to take HER place today. How funny is that? She confirmed that it would be awkward to start the class on the 2nd day. Anyway, after breakfast I ran into Marcel and we talked story for a bit, and then I headed over for my 2-hour Thai massage.

Today I brought along my ipod. I asked Suttipong if he had an ipod. He said that he had one before but did not have one now. He told me that on April 5th 2006 his house burned down and he lost everything – including a brand new 4-wheel drive truck that was only a month old. I felt so sad to hear this. After my amazing massage, he was sitting down outside and invited me to sit with him. He showed me a photo album filled with pictures of his home and his massage school burning to the ground. The flames engulfed what remained of the structure leaving only charred frame. His brand new truck was melted entirely and the glass broken out of all of the windows. I asked, and he confirmed, NO INSURANCE for any thing. The loss was so devastating to his family. He and his wife had been teachers at a government military school for 28 years. They both retired in 2004 and then built their massage school. He said that there was a flood that brought 4 feet of water into their home on this very day, 2 years ago. They lost all of their home appliances and electronics in the flood (washer, refrigerator, television, computer). They replaced everything lost in the flood. A few months past and they had another equally damaging flood, which destroyed everything he had just replaced. So again he replaced these items. Then, not long after, the fire destroyed their home, his new truck, the massage school, and everything they owned in just a few hours. He and his wife were in Chiang Mai at the time visiting one of their sons (they have 2 sons). The photographs showed his neighbors and tourists working together with buckets of water trying to put out the fire. He said that the government gave them money to help them rebuild. It seems that they are doing well now, with their “new life.” The school they have now is beautiful.

You can check out their website at: www.pttm1989.com

Tuesday 8/14/07 6:39:33 AM Hawaii time (10:40pm Pai time)

I learned how to drive a moped today. Really, this is quite an accomplishment for me – given my issue with balance on land. I’ve always been afraid of those things – I don’t think I’ve ever ridden on the back of one either. But Omar, one of the friends I met who is attending the tantra class, loaned me his moped for the day because he will be in the class until 10pm. I filled up his tank in return. I got a quick lesson on what to do and what NOT to do and I was off and riding. It was really fun actually when I wasn’t completely terrified. Once I got the hang of it, it was really nice to be able to ride the moped back and forth over hills between town and the Sun Hut guest house. The bicycle I had rented was a lot faster than the walk – especially uphill on the return home, but the moped is such an effortless treat! I took it all the way out to a Wat outside of town where I visited with a monk for a bit while the sun went down.

They have some potent Red Bull here. It is sold in a bottle that resembles Robitussin and it works better than any American Red Bull I’ve ever had. I’m wondering if it isn’t some derivative of liquid amphetamine – I mean my heart was racing! And I spent my last night in Pai club hopping until 3am. After I returned the moped to Omar at 10pm, we headed to Be Bop a live music club – very cool place. They had a couple of good bands. Be Bop closed down at 1am and we headed over to Fubar (Food and Bar) about 3 blocks away from the Sun Hut. I had a beer with Omar at Fubar, and then walked back to the guesthouse. It was a very enjoyable day and evening, and I feel ready to return to Chiang Mai.

Pai City - 8/12, On my own

2007-08-16T03:33:00.000-07:00

Sunday 8/12/07 6:17 AM Hawaii time (10:17pm Pai Time)

Swadee ka! The big hunks of blogs are due to the fact that internet service here in Pai isn’t as accessible or as fast as it is in CM. I kept forgetting to bring my laptop into Pai town so I could email, post my blog, and upload photos. When I did bring it in to town today, naturally I had technical difficulties. The internet was too slow to upload the photos and the instructions and drop down menus for my google blog were all in Thai. I had a heck of a time and just when I was ready to give up, I miraculously found a way to post the last few days of journaling. I return to CM on Wednesday afternoon/evening, I will hopefully be back in a room that has internet service and will be in touch daily afterwards.

AMANA SPA EXPERIENCE & ON MY OWN

Spider update: Paul, one of the staff here at the guesthouse, came over to rescue me from the spider. I was reassured when he said, “Wow. That’s big.” He also said that the spider lives in the ground and is a delicacy in certain areas of Thailand. Had I only known, I could have had breakfast in bed. He used a broom to remove the spider (which he said does not bite) and then threw the spider into the garden behind my guesthouse. Here’s the thing, I saw a creature of some sort (a mouse I think) attack another creature of some sort right where the spider landed. Now I think that the spider was hiding out in my room and ended up face to face with its predator. Goes to show, you can run but you can’t hide from your destiny.

After my arachnid friend met an untimely death, I headed off to the Amana spa. First I received a honey, salt and root body scrub. Then they used mud from the hot springs to rub all over my body. Next I got a facial and at the end of that, they put more mud on my face and wrapped my body in plastic to “soak in the mud” for about a half an hour. Then, I soaked in my own private bath where they pump in the water from the hot spring into the spa. I have a picture in the bath and tell me, am I or am I not glowing? I never before saw the value of a facial, but I can tell you I saw the value in this. What a treat. When I arrived back at the guest house, I saw off Melissa and Laura who were all packed up and heading back to Chiang Mai.

TANTRIC SEX COURSE
The solo phase of my journey begins. I decided that I was going to make some new friends, so I walked into town, rented a bicycle and road around. (After my 2 hour Thai massage from Suttipong, the greatest massage therapist of all time, of course.) I rode over to the resort that was having “Sunday jazz” and found the jazz musicians consisted of one hippie guy with a computer and a synthesizer – where I expected at least a couple people with actual musical instruments. So, I bagged out on that idea and searched for a place to have some food. I ended up at Na’s kitchen. I ordered this amazing thai soup and a shot of thai whisky (liquid courage to help me approach complete strangers – believe it or not I was a little nervous about meeting new people). So I sat down at Na’s kitchen, and asked the young man sitting at the table next to me, if I needed to go up to the kitchen to order my food. He said that I did and returned to his meal. OK. Perhaps here is not the place to make my new slew of friends. I placed my order and pulled out my book. That’s when the guy said, “Hey, what are you reading?” to which I responded, “Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert. I had 2 friends recommend it in the same week and it is fabulous.” His name is Marcela, he is from LA originally, but has lived all over Asia for the past 10 years or so. Marcela is a wandering yogi philosopher. He asked if he could join me, and I’m off and running having made one new friend. Turns out that he had a group of friends who had just finished their first day of a 3-day tantric sex workshop – and they all arrived at once having completed day one – Toni (the American instructor), Linda (from England), Cody (from Minnesota), Omar (American) and David who by the way is a member of the crew (Hebrew crew) and from New Jersey. They were a lively bunch and pushed tables together all around Marcela and I, and voila - new slew of peeps. Toni said that they really needed another female for the class because one of the women in todays class (who was not at dinner) had to leave Pai tomorrow – which kind of threw off the balance of the remaining members. They all started telling me about the class and Marcela looked at me and asked, “So what do you think of all of this Shira?” to which I responded, “I am equally intrigued and afraid.” Truth be told, I’ve always been curious about tantra and actually own a book entitled “Tantra for Dummies.” I’ve had that book for 3 years now and I’ve never even opened it. So yes, I was curious but really I wasn’t feeling attracted to this particular invitation for whatever reason. I thanked Toni for the invitation, but politely declined. As the evening progressed the pressure to attend the class increased with comments like, “Well Shira is probably happy with the sex she is having now.” I took the bait easily, “Actually, I do.” Toni quipped, “She must prefer a pop tart to a 5 course meal.” She did NOT just compare my stellar love making skills to the cheapest pastry in the western world. Everyone laughed – I believe this phrase was used earlier in the day. Well, that sealed it. There was no way in hell I was going to her friggin’ class. Besides, it wasn’t like, “Oh Shira, you would fit in so well with the group, and I think you would really enjoy the class.” It was more like, “We need a female and you have 2 legs and big boobs – you’ll do.” Despite the hard sell, I enjoyed their company.

Tragedy - Computer problems in Thailand

2007-08-15T06:39:00.000-07:00

I am so sad. My computer is broken. I can't log on to the internet, so all of the journals I've been writing and all of the pictures I have ready to upload, I have no way to get onto the net. I am a lonely mac user in distress and it seems that no one in Chiang Mai can help me. I can probably put my journals on a disc and then upload at an internet cafe. But the pictures are a different story. I am beyond bummed. But at least my computer still works. Maybe this means I need a new computer... hmmmm.... Anyway, I guess I'm in limbo for now. You'll know that things have changed when you get an email with pictures from me. Until then - aloha & popgun mai (see you later).

I'm in Pai! 8/8/07 - 8/12/07

2007-08-12T04:57:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 8/8/07 5:25 AM (10:25pm CM Time)
EXPLORING CM
There should be some rain over the next few days, which will be a welcome relief from the heat. I am sticking to my massage a day commitment, because I think its good to have goals even if I’m on vacation. Today I prepared for our trip to Pai by getting up early, coloring my hair, hand washing my laundry, and exploring CM all by myself. I checked out the Wat across the street from the Manee, and another down the road. Then I went to the 3 Kings Monument and the Chiang Mai Arts and Cultural Center. True to form, I ended up entering through a side entrance and first explored what will eventually be the “New CM Art & Cultural Center” as it was still under construction when I went wandering around in there today. The new facility promises to be quite breathtaking and will blow the older facility out of the water. I did make it to the right place eventually, again through a back entrance (entirely unintentional – I swear). It was ok. The best part was the gift shop area where I met an incredibly talented watercolor artist and University Art instructor who actually has his own gallery in the cultural center. I bought a small painting from him and took many pictures of him next to photos he had on the wall of himself with the princess and the queen of Thailand. Very exciting for me. He was a very gracious person and such a talented artist. Again, check out my Kodak gallery for those pix of him under “Exploring CM & the CM Arts and Cultural Center.” Also, I had the best lunch today in a local restaurant today for around $1 USD. The restaurant was across the street from the cultural center. They had 2 dishes on the menu – something with pork, and what I ordered – boiled chicken with a side dish of spices, steamed rice, and chicken soup. It was soooooo yummy!!! After all of that I got a reflexology foot massage and went to a yoga class. There are 2 yoga studios in CM- actually on the same street. One is an Ashtanga studio and the other is a Hatha studio. I went to a mysore (self-guided Ashtanga flow) practice - I think on Monday. Once a week, the hatha studio has a Vinyasa-ish advanced class held on Wednesday evenings for 2 hours from 5pm – 7pm. I went tonight and it was a lot of fun. It was really hot and the instructor Adam is Brittish and has an amazing yoga practice. He had us do postures I’ve never even seen before – not that that is surprising given I’ve just recently broke out of my strictly Ashtanga bias and coinciding practice. But it was fun doing things I’ve never done before. He had us hold the postures for longer than I’m used to and my legs were SHAKING! I met a sweet girl in class named Carrie, who I’m hoping to hang out with when I return from Pai. Actually I am returning from Pai on a Wednesday so I can make it to this once a week class again next week. After yoga, Laura, Melissa & I went to dinner at the highly recommended (for cheap, quality Vegetarian food), Gap House. It was ok – very mediocre. Afterward, Melissa and I grabbed a beer at a hoity toyty restaurant near the Manee called “the House.” It was lovely as far as ambiance, and expensive in terms of prices – hence the one beer.

Thursday 8/9/07 3:11 AM (8:11am Pai time)
Arrival in Pai – the BREW CREW Holiday spot
I am writing from Pai and let me just say we are in the COUNTRY. The critters are so loud, they nearly drown out my Itunes. I am in bed, (even though its early) and hopeful that the very firm mattress I’m lying on will give my spine a reprieve from the bed at the Manee. The drive to Pai was 3 hours of mountainous, windy road. Kind of like a 3-hour road to Hana, but not quite as picturesque. My buffet dinner from the Gap House did a number on my stomach. What splendid timing for my first gastrointestinal incident: at the back of a 10-person van on a Hana-esque road. Needless to say, despite the recommendations from multiple travel books and my dear friend Nina, I won’t be taking any Thai cooking classes from the Gap House. I prayed that the halfway leg stretch break would arrive quickly – and thankfully it did. I was having stomach cramps and belly gurgles for an hour and a half up to that point. Finally and thankfully, when we reached our Thai rest stop, my gastrointestinal problems worked themselves out, quite literally. I’ll leave it at that, for afterwards, the scenic journey was far more enjoyable. Pai is a cute, sleepy little town that seems to be nearing that breaking point of “touristy.” Apparently the secret is out. Furthermore, it seems the Israeli crowd holidays here this time of year because there are more than a few signs in Hebrew. Not that I can translate what those signs say, but I can read them incomprehensively. It is nice to be surrounded by my people – especially with my name from the homeland. I met one of the crew (“The Brew Crew” aka “Hebrew Crew”) on the van up from Chiang Mai. Poor thing got really motion sick – to the point of an unscheduled van stop to allow her to empty out her liquid filled plastic bag. Fortunately she was at the front of the van, while we were bringing up the rear. Between our fortuitous seating arrangement and ipods, we were oblivious to her situation until the van pulled over. After arriving in Pai, our guesthouse manager Nitt (yes – another Nitt – pronounced Neat) picked us up and took us to the “Sun Hut Guesthouse”. Our accommodations are adorable and exactly what one would expect if visiting Thailand – quaint individual bungalows surrounded by lush gardens and a central sitting area with stuffed pillows and cushiony mattresses on a bamboo platform covered by a large straw umbrella overhang. Quite picturesque (see pictures from Kodak gallery). All the guestrooms are named after the zodiac signs and the planets. Very intergalactic planetary. Laura promptly went on a little hike and Melissa and I explored the town and eventually got lost. A policeman actually gave us a ride back to the guesthouse on his moped when he saw Melissa was close to tears she was so exhausted from the afternoon heat and long journey. Prior to that we decided that “hippy town” was an adequate description – very North Shore, Oahu. I’m in bed because we are going to attempt a group self-lead yoga class in our little sitting area somewhere, followed by a 4-mile hike to a waterfall. I’m not big on the hiking, but thought I would give it a go since after all, hiking is actually a fancy title for walking. Man the critters are loud! I may have to wear earplugs just to drown those buggers out.

Friday – 8/12/07
HIKE TO MAE YEN WATERFALL
What a great day. I awoke around 7am and joined Laura and Melissa in the garden for a morning Mysore ashtanga practice. It was raining (we were under cover) and absolutely beautiful. I had a great practice and it was the first time the 3 of us have practiced together. Afterwards, we ate breakfast and prepared for our journey to the falls. My travel companions are apparently “hiking people.” And anyone who knows me is well aware that I have “balance issues” which is probably why I prefer to be in water which usually softens blow. It is rarely a question of if, but rather when I will fall down or bounce off table corners, walls, or just about anything most normal people could easily maneuver around. Because of this, I have never really invested in appropriate hiking or camping gear. Also – math isn’t my strong suit. Meaning, someone else should handle any measurement requiring any sort of conversion. These three shortcomings (clumsiness, a lack of hiking gear or knowledge, and mathematical ineptitude) collided into a hiking experience that I shall not soon forget and if there is higher power, will never have to repeat. The hike to Mae Yen waterfall was 7 km (4.34 miles using my laptop’s fancy length converter). Now I am uncertain if this distance was measured on a map using a straight edge starting at the road and ending at “mystery waterfall,” or whether it accounted for the 20+ times (one way) the zig zag trail crossed the river. Now I’m not complaining about the river per se because as I mentioned – I love water so it sort of kept me in my element. But it helped to orient me directionally in this great Thai jungle far away from home (Note to self: River flowing toward me takes me away from civilization, river flowing away from me takes me to a warm bed and another pair of shoes). When I went to Ghana last year, I thought that I should invest in some good walking shoes – so I spent some serious coin on my lightweight and waterproof-up-to-the ankles, hiking boots. (2nd note to self: Waterproof-up-to-the ankle hiking boots means that they are great for keeping water out of boot IF water level is BELOW the ankle. However, if water level is ABOVE the ankle, said books are perfect for keeping water IN the boot – up to the ankle. Fantastic.) Considering that we crossed the river the FIRST time about 45 minutes into the hike, lets just say that for me it was a LOOOOOOONG 6 hours of hiking ankle deep in river water regardless of whether I was emerged in the actual river. I gave up on untying, pouring, and retying after the the 3rd time we crossed the river. Good times. Did I mention how much I love hiking? And that BS I told myself about hiking being the same thing as walking – its not. (3rd note to self: Stop trying to BS self.) When it started pouring rain out there in the middle of the jungle, my peeps promptly broke out their plastic ponchos. My poncho was safe and sound back in my room – just in case I need it in the future. Thank heavens it only rained hard for about 10 minutes and stopped raining altogether after a half hour or so. I was so wet from crossing the river umpteen times, a poncho seemed a moot point anyway. Notwithstanding the fact that every step I took felt like I was walking with leather fishbowls attached to my feet, I had a great time. After 3+ hours we stopped at a small waterfall and wading pool began to question the very existence of the “mystery” waterfall. Fortunately, all three of us were ready to head back. Aside from my startling and terrifying chance encounter with a cow on the trek home, the rest of the hike was uneventful. I gave my companions ample notice that I would be manifesting a scooter ride home as soon as possible. 4 hours later I did exactly that and probably cut my hike about a mile and a half short on the return trip. Aside from manifesting a ride home, the best part was wrestling my boots off knowing I wouldn’t have to put them back on again, and allowing my waterlogged feet to begin the healing process of forgiveness toward the rest of my body. I then showered and walked another half mile (because I just couldn’t get enough of walking) to the center of town where I found the greatest Thai masseuse of all time. BTW – Apparently all of Thailand is on the Jack Johnson bandwagon. Not a day goes by that I don’t hear Jack singing in the background somewhere.

Saturday - 8/11/07 12:10 AM (5:10 pm Pai Time)
AM YOGA & A STROLL IN PAI TOWN
This is Laura and Melissa’s last night in Pai. They take the bus back to CM tomorrow morning and then leave Bangkok for Hawai the day after that. I go back to CM on Wednesday. This morning we got up early and practiced again in the same spot which was great with the exception although there was no early morning rain. It was really nice to practice and then sit down right where we just practiced and have a delicious breakfast (I had a killer omelet cooked in a tea leaf, whole wheat toast and coffee). I couldn’t resist getting a couple of photos to remember our practice nook. We walked into town and did our own thing. I went a 2 hour massage appointment – 1 ½ hour Thai massage and ½ hour herbal Thai massage. The herbal Thai massage was AMAZING. They place about 2 cups of herbs in these cloths and make softball-sized pouches. They place the pouches in a rice cooker and steam the herbs so that you can smell them as they are prepared – a mix of chamamile, long rice and lord knows what else. Whatever it was, it smelled heavenly. For the herbal massage, he took out the pouches and pressed them into my skin taking care not to burn me. I felt like I had left the planet. I had a hard time walking back to the guesthouse and took a break at a local cooking school/restaurant for a glass of fresh juice and some pad thai. I wanted (and needed) a little rest before heading out for the girls last night in Pai, but they are early to bed early to rise, so I just got cleaned up and we headed out. Pai town is lovely at night – red Japanese lanterns criss-crossing the main road. After a tasty dinner of pupus and sake at a fancy restaurant, we stopped in at a hookah and cocktail bar with low tables and pillows thrown about on the floor.

Sat 8/11/07 2:30 PM (Sunday 7:30am Pai time)
LADIES HOLIDAY
Good morning. I just 3 minutes ago awoke to a fairly sizeable 5 legged spider about 2 feet from the head of my bed. I didn’t know what else to do so I took its photograph and started to describe it here. I hope its not a leaping spider. Its body is the size of a nickel, and its 2-inched legs are this thick:

It has two big black, protruding bug eyes (now I understand where the term comes from) that stick out from either side of its body. And there is a sack. I don’t know what the sack contains – either liquid silk for statue-sized web spinning or a lethal dose of poisonous spider gew. I suppose it could contain eggs for which to fill my little bungalow with hundreds of its spider spawn. I’m just going to try to mind my own business until the front desk opens up and see if some chivalrous gentleman (or gentlewoman – hey I’m a feminist) will come remove it. I don’t want it hurt although it looks like it could defend itself pretty well. And this bungalow is probably more its home than it is mine. But one of us has to go. I’m very excited about the day. At 10am, a bus is coming to take me to a hot springs spa where I will get a facial, body mud, body scrub, and any other yummy goodness I can think of. I think the day will cost me around $70 USD. At around 3pm, I head back over to the massage school for a reflexology massage and another 1 hour herbal massage. At 6pm there is live jazz at a resort down the road from there. So that is my plan for the day. I am consoling myself because my peeps leave today. I’m going to have to go out there and make some new friends, so I want to glow.

NOTE: The internet in Pai is too slow to upload pictures so I’ll have to catch up on the photos when I return to Chiang Mai on Wednesday the 22nd. ☺

Catching up Chiang Mai 8/3/07 - 8/7/07

2007-08-07T07:12:00.000-07:00

Thursday - Hawaii Time: 8/2/07 5:00 AM
Up and at um. Said goodbye to my cozy little nook above Kailua beach park. ☹

Thursday - Hawaii Time: 8/2/07 7:50 AM
Boarded the plane and I’m off to Thailand via Taipei, Taiwan

Friday - Hawaii Time: 8/3/07 2:00 AM (Thailand time: 7pm)
I’m in the Bangkok airport waiting for my flight to Chiang Mai at 8:40pm. Long day considering I was up and at um at 5am. My flight left Honolulu at 7:50 am and flew to Taiwan in 10 ½ hours, and then on to Bangkok in about 4 hours. I think I slept for about 4 hours on the way to Taiwan. I was hanging in there quite well when I realized that my legs were having trouble holding me upright. All in all, considering I’m in a non-English speaking country, things have gone quite well at the airport. I found internet access and learned how to make a call to my friends with US cell phones here in Thailand. I can not wait to hit the hay. I have no energy to write much more. I’m going to finish my Heineken, watch Divas Live on this plasma screen TV in front of my face, and try not to sleep through the boarding of my flight.

Friday - Hawaii time: 8/3/07 6:43 AM (Thailand Time11:45pm - Friday)
Chiang mai – easy as pie. Arrived, grabbed bag, got taxi, found guest house, room available – nice room with fan, then found peeps (Laura & Melissa -3 doors down from me.) I’m showered up and in bed. Good night!

Friday 8/3/07 9:55 PM Hawii Time (Almost 3pm in Thailand - Saturday)
Wow. Its hot. I am lying in bed with a fan blowing on me. Siesta time. My first day in Chiang Mai was beautiful. Didn’t sleep too late – awoke around 7am and couldn’t go back to sleep. Melissa is still in massage school – where she’s been all day. Laura and I had a lovely breakfast of fresh fruits and juice. I also indulged in banana whole wheat pancakes – YUM! Then I went and got a 2 hour Thai massage – pure heaven. I don’t think I’ve ever had a 2 hour massage before, but I highly recommend it. I’ve also never before had a Thai massage, which if you are unfamiliar, is mostly stretching the muscles in various ways. Very cool. Then Laura and I bought a book or 2 from a used book store and had a lovely vegetarian lunch at “Whole Earth.” Whole Earth is located in a old Thai building surrounded by a garden and fountains. We were asked to remove our shoes before entering the dining area. So fabulous. I actually met someone on my flight to Thailand who went to school at West Point with Bowe. His friend sat next to me on that flight and we chatted a bit. He asked if I had ever read the Road Less Traveled. I have not – so that’s what I picked up at the bookstore today. I’m going to hold off on describing Chiang Mai until I see a bit more of it. But I could really get used to this luxurious lollygagging lifestyle. Til then, time for a nappy-poo.

So I took my little nappy and didn’t awake until 7pm – a 4 hour snoozer. Melissa and Laura had already left the guesthouse for dinner I assume. So I got up and left the “old city” – which is surrounded by a moat by the way (how cool is that? I though modern day moats only existed surrounding beach sandcastles in Kailua – who knew?) Anyhow, I left the Old City and took a “tuk tuk” (refashioned moped that accommodates up to 3-4 passengers – cost is about $1.50 around town) to a restaurant/bar along the Mae Ping River called “The Good View” restaurant. Appropriately named. I sat at a table in front of a trio of performers who sang Jack Johnson and Coldplay songs, etc – quite well actually. I promptly and unintentionally ordered the spiciest plate I’ve ever had in my life. It was the size of a tapas plate (maybe a bit larger) – but it took 1 Singha and 3 bottles of cold water to wash it down. Afterwards I took a stroll through the night market – and I’m proud to say I held off on buying any trinkets so far. When I started yawning I went back to Manee Guesthouse and turned in.

Saturday 8/4/07 2:23 PM (Thai time – 7:25am - Sunday)
I awoke pretty early – before the sun rose – around 5:30 am I think. I took some shots of the sun coming up through the doorway across from my bed. I think last’s night’s meal caught up with me a bit. Laura, Melissa and I had a light breakfast – and then Melissa went off for her last day of Thai massage school, and Laura and I went to a Hatha yoga class that was quite enjoyable and fun. The teacher is British and had a great sense of humor. Laura and I agreed that Amy would have loved him. Afterwards we grabbed some lunch (pad thai and smoothies) and headed up to the mountains for a visit to Doi Suthep, a wat that overlooks Chiang Mai city. First of all, our driver hauled ass the whole way up a windy road that would put Tantlus to shame – twice as windy and three times as far up (or so it seemed). I was caught up in the drama of Laura who got a serious case of motion sickness and kept trying to reassure her that we were almost there. Although, it was unsaid that we both knew I don’t read the Thai signs along the road and had no idea how long it would take us to get there. However, we made it there safe and sound. Laura needed some time to come back down to the planet, so we sat (I sat, she layed down) near the bathrooms. I had a strange experience while I sat and waited for her stomach to settle. (Warning – what I am about to write is very disturbing) I think I witnessed sexual abuse of a 3-4 year old girl. At first I wasn’t sure what I was seeing – and I’m still not 100% certain what I actually saw. But she was behaving in a very sexual manner which I believe is extremely unusual for a child that age from any culture. I didn’t see the perpetrator actually touching her, but her behavior was so strange and again, I’ve only seen behavior like that in a 3 year old child that I worked with at practicum who had a sexual abuse history. It really bummed me out. I didn’t know what to do – here we are in a jungle – at the base of a holy temple, and to see that – very unexpected and disconcerting. I was so confused. I just prayed for her and for the situation that I witnessed. I don’t speak the language and I’ve been here for 1 day so the culture is very new to me. I felt very sad and disgusted that this was occurring and I found it strange that I was there to witness it. I mean no one else was around but reclining and nauseas Laura and myself. Anyway, on to more pleasant topics – it is about 1000 steps to the temple. I’ve never been to a place like that before. It was amazing. Buddhas everywhere – gold, jade, ivory – anything. I was blessed by one of the elderly monks. In that area of the temple the monk sits next to another man who places a braided string bracelet on the wrists of the women, as the monk places one on the wrists of the men. I later learned that the bracelet is a symbol of good luck. I got a picture of Laura getting her bracelet. Then Laura showed me how to properly make an offering. There were several ceremonial rituals all throughout the temple. The next morning I awoke was the first in several weeks that I didn’t have a sore throat and mild cough. Coincidence? Perhaps. That evening when we returned to the old city, Laura and I took Melissa out to celebrate the completion of her Thai massage course. We had a delicious dinner at the “Riverside restaurant” right next door to the “Good View” restaurant where I ate the night before. As we were leaving the restaurant a motorcade rolled up complete with marked and unmarked police cars and an ambulance. We saw the princess of Thailand – who it appeared was headed to the Good View for dinner. Very exciting – a princess sighting.

Sunday - 8/5/07 4:41 PM (10:41 am Monday – 8/6/07 Chiang Mai)
For whatever reason, my little peepers pop open at 5am – 5:30 every morning. Today I got up and went to the Ashtanga studio to practice. I was hesitant until now because Laura and Melissa said the studio owner and instructor was a bit strange. I believe they described him as “a little off.” I just wanted to practice ashtanga – so I went to the studio. They were right – he wasn’t repulsive or anything. If you ever saw the film “Something about Mary,” his accent and his features reminded me of the faking disabled British doctor who was completely obsessed with Mary. That’s what he looked and sounded like – sans crutches and limp. He was nice enough and at least I got to practice. There is this great little restaurant called the Blue Diamond right around the corner from Manee Guesthouse. They have fresh cut fruit, juices, and delicious fruit pancakes – and just about anything you can imagine. That’s where I have breakfast every morning. Melissa and Laura and I did a bit of shopping and then got 2-hour Thai massages. I think that my bed at the guesthouse has been detrimental to the health of my back. So I asked my massage therapist to spend a little extra time on my back. She proceeded to torture me for about 40 minutes. I lost my breath on several occasions. I plan to see her again tomorrow. Melissa has been here 2 weeks longer than me because she has studied at the Thai massage school, so she met some locals. Her friends, Nitt and Nang (sister) and their friend Sunton (who is a cop and happens to be Thailand’s top sniper) took us to this fabulous restaurant for dinner. I’m not sure how to pronounce the restaurant’s name, but the translation is something like “The King’s Land.” We sang karaoke and had an amazing meal. They had songs in both English and Thai. I sang “I just called to say I love you” and “yesterday.” I learned how to say “I love you” in Thai - chun rack koon. We got back to the guesthouse a bit late, but it was a really special experience.

Monday - 8/6/07 9:16 PM (2:15pm Tuesday in CM)
Today I actually slept in. I took an Ambien last night and I slept until almost 9am. I went to the other yoga studio here in CM for a hatha practice. The instructor there reminds me of Rupali (only she has a Swiss accent). She was a great instructor and I got a lot out of the class. As if she was psychic she did a lot of back and side stretches that really helped stretch out my sore back. I had more banana pancakes and Blue Diamond afterward. Melissa, Laura and I are planning on leaving CM on Thursday and heading up north to a rural town called Pai – so we are planning that trip. Before we arrived in Thailand we were advise to book our travel after we get here. Apparently Melissa and Laura waited too long to change their tickets that might have allowed them to stay a couple extra days, so they are leaving on the 14th, instead of the 16th or 18th. I changed my ticket in Honolulu so I am confirmed on a flight out on the 30th. It looks like we will go to Pai together for 3 days, and then they leave. I think I may stay in CM for another week, and then spend my last week in Cambodia – because I have enough time to book my ticked in advance for a much cheaper fare – looks like $100 USD roundtrip from Bangkok. As it stands now, that’s the plan. I’m off for another Thai massage!

Thuesday 8/7/07 4:20 AM (8/7/07 – 9:20pm CM Time)
Woa – massage was awesome. Melissa, who’s been here for a couple of weeks already, met these two Thai young ladies (Nitt & Nang) who work at their auntie’s internet café/massage parlor. I mentioned that they, along with their sharp shooter friend Sunton, took us out for an awesome Thai dinner last night. Well tonight, Nitt held a private cooking class for us in front of the internet café (so local Hawaii style!). She taught us how to make Thai green curry. It was delicious. For dessert we had fresh fruit. Sooooo yummy. I just returned home and I’m headed to bed.